Selvedge as a world trend. Part I
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Japanese denim has long ago stepped over the bounds of Japan and become mainstream. However, selvedge manufactured by
European and American fashion designers differs from that manufactured in Japan. Japanese are most of all concentrated
on the quality of their customized denim, its finishing, coloring, as well as scrupulous reproduction of a vintage model’s
decorative details. They also value individuality of clothes with all its imperfections. European and American couturiers
emphasize the silhouette of jeans as well as general esthetics of denim collection, political views and musical idea,
which all eventually reflects itself in jeans’ cut. Japanese denim fabric is then used as cloth of the highest quality or
just to follow the trend which is present on the world markets for a couple of last years. So let’s take a closer look
on salvage denim manufactured outside Japan.
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In Sweden jeans embody democratic values and are worn both by jurists and cleaners. The first Swedish brand
we are going to talk about is called Nudie Jeans. It was established by Maria Erixon, ex-designer of Lee.
The main principle of the brand is jeans are like second skin which can beautifully grow old accentuating
the individuality of its owner. The more you wear your custom jean, the more personalized it becomes,
reflecting your character and habits. There are no advertising campaigns for the brand. And this step is
deliberate. However, the trademark supports Amnesty International and Children’s Cancer Fond. The names
of the jeans models are also very personalized - Regular Ralf, Grim Tim, Even Steven. Nudie Jeans brand
doesn’t hunt after the latest fashion trends in denim wear. And Swedish companies Acne and Julian Red do.
Julian Red was established in Goteborg several years ago and today manufactures only three jeans models –
Hoboken (skinny jeans tight at the bottom); Detroit and California (of a more relaxed cut). Acne is a bigge
r brand established in Stockholm in 1996 and now presenting 10 jeans models – women’s wear, men’s wear and
unisex style. Pace Jeans has a classical cut and good quality of denim. Cheap Monday presents its premium
denim line called Latio Lajban and is popular all over the world thanks to superskinny tailor made jeans.
The brand also has reasonable prices, a good image and the models have relaxed and regular fit. Jeans by Cheap
Monday are sawn from Japanese denim in a raw selvedge style as well as jeans manufactured by a lifestyle Swedish
company called WeSC.
French designers were probably the first ones to use Japanese denim outside Japan. A.P.C.
brand (Atelier des Production et Creation) was established in 1987 by Jean Touitou and has
made a reputation of classical elegance. There are no excessive embellishments on jeans manufactured
under this trademark, just a fabric stripe inside. A unique cut – that’s the distinguishing feature
of these made to measure jeans. The most popular model is called New Standards. It is made in unisex
style and is characterized by a straight tight cut, unwashed structure and Japanese selvedge. Denim
sewn by French brand April 77 resembles that of Cheap Monday – the same superskinny cut and reputation
all over the world. Atelier LaDurance is a small French brand which pays much attention to the design of
the jeans, decorating details as well as denim quality. However, the latest fashion trends in denim wear
are practically ignored here.
Posted: 03.01.2010 by Stella Tornton
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