Perfect Japanese denim. Part III – cutting, sewing and post processing
Cutting and sewing.
On this stage denim becomes really personalized. Jeans cutting in Japan is mostly computer-equipped,
with the only exception of some brands which design custom jeans on individual measures. Sewing however
is traditionally carried out on ancient sewing machines. Buttonhole stitch is also not automated and
embroidery on back pockets is generally handmade.
Most world denim manufacturers prefer to sew their jeans using lockstitch. Japanese manufacturers however
use mostly the so-called chainstitch, which is considered to be more secure, lasting and stretches better
compared with lockstitch. Vintage machines Union Special which, as you probably already know, are used by
many Japanese denim brands can sew with chainstitch when two threads are binding each other. Some manufacturers
even use triple chainstitch for pockets fixing instead of usual rivets.
As to the cutting of made to measure jeans, almost all of them represent replica of classical jeans models by Levi’s,
Lee and Wrangler, because reconstruction of Wild West spirit is the sense of living for most Japanese denim manufacturers.
Numbers in the name of replica models indicate the year of the original’s appearance, for instance, 47, 55 or 66.
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Furnishings do not mean to Japanese brands as much as the quality of denim itself, however, some jeans models have silver
rivets, including closed and open ones on back pockets. Other denim creations have recreated riveting of the flypiece,
wild deer, piton or horse skin patches, donut buttons, or other decorative elements.
Post processing
Japanese jeans are always dry, which means there are never treated with enzymes, abrasives, bleach, pumice stones, acid,
ripper knives, or undergo other high-tech technologies to create a worn look. Besides they are never washed at the finishing
stage. However, there are certain finishing techniques which are just inevitable. Most Japanese tailor-made jeans are made
with bolts. However, dry jeans with a zipper fly will not definitely survive the first washing – jeans can then shrink strongly
– up to a couple of sizes, a zipper can be deformed and thus has to be replaced. That is why such jeans are always sanforized,
which prevents their shrinking. The technology of sanforizing was invented in 1933 by Sanford Cluett and now includes jeans
presoaking with water or steam, stretching by rubber rolls and drying on a heated cylinder. Sanforizing is today carried out
on jeans with bolts as well. One wash technology serves the same result. A simple soaking in hot water which doesn’t influence
the color is used.
So, to sum it up – as we can see from the results of our short research on Japanese denim, perfect Japanese customized jeans
are made from American Extra Long Staple cotton, are ringspun, colored with natural indigo dye using rope-dyeing method, have
selvedge, are chainstitched and undergo sanforization and one-wash. Needless to say, that such handicraft and quality is quite
expensive. However, you can anytime try to build your own jeans with the help of GetWear, because it’s very easy and the result
will definitely surpass your expectations! Stay tuned, GetWear!
Posted: 11.01.2010 by Stella Tornton
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